Wednesday, December 30, 2009

Paris a la Mode and the Elysian Fields

Tuesday the 29th, we are late risers after the bus trip and toil to a little coffee shop down the street where we indulge in great french coffee, carrot cake and pain aux chocolate. After this we wander the streets admiring the stores and their contents though nothing is a bargain unless you want some tourist tat: a glowing Tour Eiffel, t-shirts, hats, etc.

We head to the Champs Elysee via the Metro, walking and watching. They are packing up the Christmas market and preparing for new years eve which we are told is crazy on the Champs. We still have to figure out where to watch the light show, from there, the Tower or up the hill in Montmartre perhaps. Knowing us we'll be in bed asleep the crazy nighthawks we are.

The Champs Elysee is fascinating, from the cobbled surface, to the Arc de Triomph standing proudly at the top, the stores ranging from Cartier and Louis Vuitton through the occasional tourist store (not sure how they afford the rent), some great restaurants and a veritable mass of people. The people flow up and down the street in search of whatever it is they want, the tourists taking pictures trying to capture the essence of the street which is impossible. The locals using the street as a passage to their next appointment or, for the lucky few, some shopping. Shopping here is high end stuff and so we see the elegant man in his black velour jacket and trousers, stark white shirt and narrow black tie carrying bags from a fashion store of which I didn't recognise the name... there are too many to keep track of here. We also saw the lady walking her small dog whilst wearing a full length fur or faux fur coat. As it is Paris I would think it is real...quite a surreal moment in this day and age but this is Paris. On the other end of the fashion spectrum we also saw hot pants with suede ankle boots connected by black patterned hose, an interesting choice with the cold wet weather for the guy in question... I kid, it was a girl and she carried it off pretty well except for the tiptoeing through the muddy market. But in Paris you do what you must when you make your fashion statement.

And perhaps you are asking what my statement was, well with limited choice I threw together an ensemble I like to call clean jeans and t-shirt which, considering the limits of my wardrobe sans baggage, I carried off magnificently. I blended with the Parisiennes like a fish doing backstroke. Magnifique but odd.

More soon from your foreign correspondent as he labours in the Elysian Fields.

Tuesday, December 29, 2009

Yesterday was a Bus(t)

We spent yesterday on a bus... what was meant to be a leisurely train across countries between Germany, through Luxembourg and ending in Paris was adjusted as our boat could not make it to Trier. The river was running high with melting snow so much so that the boat could not fit under the bridge at Koblenz. This meant a change of plans and a visit to Cologne. Lovely with a great cathedral and an even better Lindt chocolate factory tour (sacrilege I know).

However, this somewhat screwed up the train passes we had purchased as we were no longer going to be in Trier to catch the efficient European train and TGV connection that would whisk us into Paris in four hours. To the cruise lines credit they were happy to put us on a bus with the rest of the folks continuing the tour and take us to Paris. An easy fix for us and nice to be with traveling companions.

So the coach was loaded at 8:00AM (bags outside rooms for loading by 7:00AM) and off we sped with Jochen and Oliver our drivers. Two likable and fun guys were needed because they were to drive to Paris and then back in the day which is too much for one driver under european safety regulations. We stopped briefly for a look round the Duchy of Luxembourg, International banking, bier and ... well that was pretty much it really. Very picturesque from what I could see in 55 minutes. Then back on the bus for another stint before lunch at a motorway/interstate stop. Pretty upmarket compared to the places I have 'enjoyed' in the UK ad USA. Jammed to the rafters with travellers so we had a take out jambon et fromage sandwich and back on the bus with 240 kilometers to go. This was the last leg and bar one 'comfort' stop we were straight into Paris at rush hour. This made for an entertaining if slow journey to the tour hotel as we watched Jochen dice with the Paris drivers... they know no fear as they don't care if they dent a fender or two. It brings a whole new meaning to driving aggressively and if you are a pedestrian you better have your wits about you.

So at 5:30PM we made it to the tour hotel. We were staying elsewhere so grabbed our bag (!) and headed off to our hotel in St Michel on the border of St Germain and the Latin Quarter. We charged the Metro like tortoises after hibernation (too much sleeping on the bus) and enjoyed the benefit of 'un incident sur la ligne' plus a train that stopped mid line and returned whence it came. When all was said and done we made it to our hotel around 7:30pm, exhausted and ready for a meal and sleep (sleeping on a bus can really tire you out).

Fortunately for us I can highly recommend the restaurant attached to the Hotel, c'est magnifique though rabid hunger may have distorted my perspective. Not much though... a good rose, some bread and what else matters.

After that, a short walk, 20 yards, back to the hotel... we did actually go outside (M will relate the other half of that story!) and sleep, deep hearty sleep after travelling for 12 hours on trains, buses and autobahns.

And I know, you are all (2 of you) wanting to know about Les Baggages... Non Monsiuer, il n'est pas arrive. So we look forward to the day when someone says something other than soon or tomorrow to be reuntied with our baggage.

My last word for now is that we are in Paris and the city of lights is living up to its name. Truly a lovely place and incroyable during the festive season. I recommend everyone see the it sometime in their life.

So for now, bon chance, bon voyage and if I don't get back for a day or two bonne annee.

Sunday, December 27, 2009

People

So another cool part of the trip is the people we have met.

The boat is pretty small, max 148 people, with about 90 passengers onboard this trip. The group cover a fair cross section of ages (5 through 70+) and nationalities (US, Australian, Japanese, Venezualan, Mexican, etc) which makes for an interesting experience in and of itself.

Over and above the passengers are the crew who are an amazing group of people with great stories and spirits. One of the team is an ex water polo player while another is 23 year old Latvian who has been on ships round the world except for Asia, which he wants to see next. A large number, if not all, seem to be from the old eastern bloc countries - Hungary, Bulgaria, Latvia and beyond. They all work long hours but seem to enjoy life because they are making there way in the world, and something for themselves, but also (hopefully) because the parent company is well managed. As one of the guys said, "I could be better paid on another boat but it is less stressful here which is better for me and you". Very wise on so many levels.

In terms of the passengers, we've spent time learning about:
- A lady born and brought up 2 miles from where I was born. Her husband flew Winston Churchill in the war and worked for British Airways for 20+ years.
- A May/September retired couple who met and married late and now live three doors down from Bo Derek while running their own small vineyard.
- A Canadian couple where the chap used to work at Amex in the same building as us.
- The president and vice president of the cruise line of which the VP is a woman who used to work for Amex too.
- A retired gay couple from New Mexico who are going to Paris for their anniversary which is the same day as ours.

Everyone has a story if you want to sit and listen. It's a great way to spend time and brings a whole new level to people watching.

Till the next time, may your grapes and wine mature and flavour as you desire.

- Posted using BlogPress from my iPod

Saturday, December 26, 2009

The litany continues

So after baggage delay (loss?), cold, diarrhoea and popped rib ligament (see morganizedchaos.blogspot.com) it is perhaps no surprise to find that the recent snows have caused the river to rise to such a level that we can not get under the bridge at Koblenz. Not a big deal though we now have to figure out how to get to Trier to catch our train. But this is what travel is about, getting lost and finding the pearl in the place you should never have been. We're getting lost a lot this trip, metaphorically speaking.

Arriving in Koblenz the river's mooring spots are all full and double banked as all the cruise ships and cargo barges are in the same boat (with the bridge issue). So the skipper draws a crowd on and off the boat as he has to manouvre all 300 foot to within 30 feet of the stone bridge while dealing with a 10 knot current. He managed it with aplomb though perhaps taking a bit more care and time than usual. He then supervised strapping the ship to the pilings to stop us floating off during the night. Now the boat is creaking and groaning against the cables and timber fenders. Makes me feel all nautical and Jack Sparrow like.

So until the next time Ahoy me hearties I'm off to splice the mainbrace.

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Christmas Cracker

Merry Christmas (a day late but not a dollar short) to everybody out there, reading or not. Karmically it's gotta be good to send positive vibes to the world whether it celebrates Christmas or something/nothing else.

Been a great couple of days here.

Spent Xmas eve in Wertheim, home of Hans (booby) the glass blower. A small quaint village offering a cold and brisk morning stroll and the last shopping opportunity for the week.
Hans had done a glass blowing demonstration on the ship the night before. He'd captivated folks with his showmanship, skill and sense of humour. He got the kids to blow themselves ornaments as keepsakes and in between showed a range of things including blowing a glass bubble thinner than paper before exploding it all over himself but coming out unscathed as the glass is like tissue paper.
We ended up not buying anything at Hans even though we liked a lot. A sign of how under the weather we were both feeling.

Later we went on to Miltenberg but spent the afternoon relaxing on the boat as we built up to the big Christmas Eve dinner.

In Germany Christmas Eve is more important than the day. So dinner was all the fixings of the season before the crew provided a mini carol concert and then Santa Klaus paid a visit with gifts for everone. After that we danced till late having become firm friends with the pianist who after a long 10 month season wanted to play something more than the standards, seasonal or otherwise. M had him playing Steely Dan, which he loved, and he then spent a while extolling his love of jazz. All in all a fun and fascinating night.

We woke up Christmas morn with the chilly weather around but no snow. We'd done our Christmas at home but the ship gave us little chocolate gifts in our shoes, which we'd been asked to leave outside our rooms the night before. A lovely touch to start the day.

The day was given over to wandering through Mainz and Rudesheim. Both enjoyable and different with the highlights being the museum of mechanised music machines (!) and the smallest street in europe.

All in all a very full couple of days.

Till next I write, TIOT

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Thursday, December 24, 2009

Snapshot




...

Nuremberg - Christmas baubles and my winter outfit.

Short news as the network is about to go down.

- Rainy
- Relaxed day wandering and reading especially as
- My wife has popped a rub ligament... picking something up (3rd item?)
- Bags still MIA though Air France is sure they will get to them tomorrow!

More news and views when the network is back and I have something of note to say... do I ever have something of note to say!

Wednesday, December 23, 2009

Frolicking in Franconia

So while net connectivity holds up....

We have spent the last two days in burgs, Bam and Wurz, which showed their charms through the multiple petticoats of wind, rain and cold. They also showed their 'wurst' (I had to get the pun out the way early), the famed German sausage (insert your own German porn star joke here), which smells fantastiche as we walk the markets but due to a variety of reasons we have yet to sample (see morganizedchaos.blogspot.com for more information). My excuse is that it is hard to jam anything extra down my throat over the three meals and two snacks the boat is providing daily. As it is, Melissa (my sensual siren of a wife of ten years on Jan 1st) nearly had to get a sedan chair to get me home from town. Unfortunately or perhaps fortunately they are not too prevalent around these parts.

Needless to say the food is very good so it is trial to eat in moderation though we are doing OK really. Its truly startling the range of stuff provided daily...I'll touch on that more another day perhaps.

We've been on board two days only but the days are whipping by as there is so much organised. So much so you have to carve time out for a rest! For example, today's itinerary:

7 - Breakfast
9 - Head to Wurzburg; 1 hour tour of the Residence (Palace); an hour in town and back to the boat for 12
12 - Lunch
1 - Off to Rottenbaeur; 1 hour tour and 1 hour in town and back for 6
6:15 - Glassblowing demonstration
7:15 - Dinner
9:15 - in the Lounge for music
10:30 - late snack
11:30 - trip to the vomitorium

We bailed on Rottenbaeur for a walk back into Wurzburg. M had skipped the morning tour with the beginnings of a cold and it was nice to just amble through the streets and see the town going about its Christmas preparations. We half heartedly looked for a semi formal outfits for the Christmas dinner (yes Day 5 and the baggage is still missing, presumed sunning itself in Rio). But we spent more time listening to Santa grinding his organ (no monkey in sight), practicing my german without spitting on people (Frohe Weinachten), buying a few gifts and people watching. It's always humbling how many folks speak english in comparison to how few englishers speak the local language. In sync with that the locals always get a kick out of you trying to speak their language. It opens doors in many ways... funniest conversation to date: buying a bra (for M!) and working with the lady on size etc. before she admitted she had great english! Those interactions tend to be my favourite elements of trips as a potentially closed moment can be bridged with some terribly stilted german and a smile.

This is the last real shopping day in Germany as Christmas Eve is a big thing here with the country shutting up shop (literally) until the 28th after lunchtime tomorrow. The Christmas markets will be gone, the decorations will dangle a little more forlornly and the new year will nearly be on us.

One final note, I am not sure Germany lends itself to frolicking but here in Franconia and Bavaria, home to leder hosen (which tends to chafe at frolicking speed), they like to enjoy themselves. And although I have had many (1) requests to don the famous leather trews I am leaving the LH wearing to the professionals.

Till the next time I'm Rudy Maxout, the Saveloy traveller.

Monday, December 21, 2009

Day 3, Bagless in Bavaria

(...delayed post due to no net connection...)

So today (Mon 21st) we got news that there is no news on our bags...excellent!

This meant spending the morning buying clothes for the next few days as everything was shut yesterday due to it being Sunday. This meant all the shopping had to be completed before we boarded the boat in the afternoon. Shopping for a complete wardrobe...a woman's dream, a man's nightmare and all to be done to a budget and time limit. All the makings of a bad gameshow or a task on the amazing race.

Actually M hated it too due to the restrictive parameters of the task. And exhausting especially competing with the Christmas shopper crowd.

But we were victorious, and yes I mean we WON as it was a battle of wills, minds and bodies from which we emerged foot sore but with clothing that at least means tomorrow is not Groundhog day again.

A true test of a relationship one might say, if one was still on speaking terms...I jest, M is asleep which is why we're not speaking.

No sooner out of the shops than into a taxi and to our boat for the next leg of our journey. We made the boat at 4.30pm enjoying swift showers before safety and welcome meetings started and we started to acclamate. It's certainly nice to finally be aboard enjoying all the MS Amalyra has to offer.

As I sign off we have just set sail at 11.00pm to the scratching and scraping of ice breaking down the sides of the boat hull. I feel like an arctic explorer looking for the northwest passage...but with cocktails on demand.

Brilliant start to the cruise. Till the next time, keep your tiller in your hand and your helm steady.

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Sunday, December 20, 2009

Loneliness of long distance luggage

So a call this morning identied that our bags are not delayed but their whereabouts are unknown. Good news if you love a mystery but less so if you need some warm clothing and are getting on a week long boat cruise tomorrow.

We ventured out in the 5 degree weather in search of adventure and a sweater. Managed a 50% success there as Nuremberg is a cracking little town with a great Christmas market. We sped round as much as we could whilst holding the cold at bay with newly purchased hat, scarf and socks. Plus pausing regularly for kaffee unt gluhwein to fortify ourselves. As it is Sunday there are no real shops open so no sweaters to be found. I did however get some classic looks in the cafe where I was the only person wearing a short sleeve shirt!

Having had our fill, for now, of Nuremberg's offerings we headed back to the hotel. Unfortunately news on the bags is still that they are missing in action, holidaying by themselves somewhere warm and sunny I suspect. More news as it happens.

- Posted using BlogPress from my iPod

Saturday, December 19, 2009

A passage through Paris

A long day having spent 20 hours traveling between Miami and Nuremberg. We were late leaving Miami and delayed in Paris (due to snow) for our connecting flight. Nothing to do but enjoy the experience as much as possible...people watching and figuring out the change of language always being an enjoyable start to the trip.

Arriving in Nuremberg and landed at -15 C or 5 degree F (official classification 'pretty nippy'). Snow all around and picture postcard trees glimpsed through the gloom. A bus to the terminal and efficient German baggage handling had us moving in moments. Unfortunately 'sans baggage' as inefficient Air France had not put our luggage on the plane (despite 4 hours in Paris to do the job). And although I believe in traveling light, this is taking things a little further than even optimistic me would do.

So off into the night we fled, overnight package in hand...a nifty pint sized pack with toothbrush, tooth paste, t-shirt stuff...to find our Hotel in darkest Nuremberg, essentially an upmarket and quaint B&B called the Hotel Vosteen. Beautifully appointed with one of the best self service coffee machines I have ever had the pleasure of using.

Now, in situ but with nothing to unpack we went hunting (not Miguel style) for a bite to eat. Parameters, nearby and frequented by locals so we can experience some flavour. Maria at the front desk recommended L'Osteria, a crazy busy italian joint with barely space to swing a cat and all the more festive for it. They jammed us in and we enjoyed all they had to offer with a rough red, bread, cheese and pasta to follow...not German but hit the spot n terms of warmth and comfort. Tomorrow we'll track down some wurst and some more locally derived fixings.

Post meal we fair sprinted back to the hotel as we were past 'nippy' and in to 'a bit bloody parky' territory. With a little luck tomorrow will bring some exploring, luggage permitting. My 'Miami travel outfit' is not really cutting it in the Bavarian winter! However, its just great to be here experiencing it...so tomorrow the Nuremberg Christkindlesmarkt (http://www.christkindlesmarkt.de/english/).

Till the next time, Auf Wiedersehen.

Tuesday, December 15, 2009

Back with a Whimper

So for what it's worth it appears I have been remiss in my blogging or at least with the frequency of my blogging!

Let's try this again.

So we're traveling today. Through Paris and onto Nuremberg to see the Christmas market. It's meant to be one of the biggest and best, seems like a good seasonal thing to do.

This morning has meant checking flights - due to snow delays in Paris - and final efforts making sure we're sorted out with everything we need.

Plus it is slashing down with rain here, snow in England and Paris...rum weather for sure. All adds to the spice of the travel. Nuremberg was 18 degrees when I last checked...packed one sweater and I'm thinking perhaps that won't be enough!

Ah well, I hear they take cash over there so if it ain't packed it can always be bought!

Alright, signing off till later...Auf Wiedersehen pets.

PS You can follow me at Twitter.com/twixtlimey